Right-click to download:
Kenmore 1752 manual
Note: If you are an eBay parasite who downloads free manuals and then sells $10 “electronic copies” of a file (you neither scanned, printed, or bound) to unsuspecting people, rest assured that Santa will hear about this – and you’ll be sorry.
The following video compares a SewQuiet 5000 servo motor against a conventional clutch motor for powering industrial sewing machines.
Summary: When adjusted properly, a clutch motor is just as controllable as a servo motor, but it requires some practice, and a little more concentration.
There are modifications published on the internet for modifying an optical servo motor to make it have a “smoother” ramp-up than came stock with my unit in Spring of 2012. (This requires taking the unit apart and I haven’t bothered to to this yet.) I leave my top speed set at 600rpm, which is fine for the type of heavy sewing the (compound feed) Adler spends most of it’s time doing.
The Juki, with it’s clutch motor is a (bottom-feed) single needle unit that does light and medium weight sewing. I recently made drapes with it, and the raw speed and power of this unit (compared to the domestic sewing machine I used last time around) was intoxicating.
Clutch motors use more energy and make more noise, but they cost a lot less — especially if they came FREE with your used machine. I rather like the soothing hum it makes, as well as it’s bullet-proof feel and unstoppable performance, but that’s just the Alpha-male in me.
Each person must weigh “cost versus control” for themselves.
If buying a new machine, I would bite the bullet and not only buy a servo motor, but go all the way to a needle-positioning system. (“Pay once, cry once. Cheap out, buy again” has been my experience.)
A Juki 555-5 (clutch) and an Adler 467 (servo) were not harmed in the making of this video.
I recently needed to make a large pleated table skirt and was not relishing the tedious process of calculating, measuring and pinning such a large piece of fabric. Then inspiration struck.
Following the illustrations below, you can make your own tool or create one for your unique circumstances:
The Pleating tool is simply two pencils taped together with a spacer of varying thickness between the shafts. You can vary the spacer thickness, or use different size pencils, dowels, or even knitting needles if you desire a different size pleat.
- Measure and mark the position of each pleat. It is easiest to mark all the locations at once, and then start forming the pleats.
- Insert the fabric between the pencils. Position the chalk mark so that it lies in the gap. Where exactly this mark lies is not vital, as long as you do the same thing consistently for all the pleats.
Rotate the pencils, smoothly wrapping the fabric. Do not rush, uniformity and accuracy is vital. Slight deviance will stand out in the final product!
- Pinch the cloth and slide the pencils out of the pleat.
Hold the pleat tightly after removing the pencils.
Pin the pleat you made.
- Sew directly across pleats, being careful not to strike the pins.
Now that’s simple, easy, and cheap… (Same way I like my women.)
(Machine: Pfaff Tipmatic 6122)